For those with ambitions to see western Canada but who have less than two weeks to spend, we’ve packaged a two-day Rocky Mountaineer with a small group tour into BC’s interior and Alaska. Your wilderness experience is then capped off by a cruise down the Inside Passage to Vancouver Island. Book by April 30, 2012 and receive a 3% discount.
Rails to Sails Express Itinerary
Day 1. Kamloops, BC
Your first day on the Rocky Mountaineer takes you from Banff in the Rocky Mountains to Kamloops (pop. 87,000), known for its warm, arid climate and wild west history that includes the fur trade, the gold rush and cattle ranching. With your backdrop as the snow-capped peaks of the Canadian Rockies, every turn in the track yields a new vista of seemingly endless wilderness. Or you may be startled by crossing a high trestle over a raging river or a close-up encounter with an elk, caribou, mountain goat or moose.
Highlights on this day include the climb over Rogers Pass, the Kicking Horse Canyon and the legendary Spiral Tunnels, built by the CPR in 1909 to prevent runaway trains. Natural wonders also include Glacier and Yoho National Parks and, as we cross into Alberta, the Continental Divide.
You end your first rail day by following the Thompson River and then the winding shoreline of Shuswap lake after encountering Craigellachie, where the last spike of the Canadian Pacific Railway was driven in 1895. The rolling ranchlands and lakeshores gradually appear as the Monashee and Columbia Mountain ranges fade.
Meals: Breakfast and lunch
Accommodation: RedLeaf + GoldLeaf guests stay in a moderate (2-3*) hotel in Kamloops. As RedLeaf guests luggage will be checked through to Banff, we recommend they pack an overnight bag for this night in Kamloops. Your main luggage will be checked through to your final destination and will not be available. Please be sure to carry any medication with you.
Day 2. Vancouver, BC
Leaving Kamloops, the landscape begins to evolve from the ranchland and rolling hills of the Thompson River Valley to several eco systems contained in the Fraser Canyon. From the canyon’s severe desert-like valley bottom, Ponderosa pine and bunch grass climb the mountainsides through wet and dry coniferous forests. The geological contrast continues as alpine meadows and high ice-clad peaks rise to reign above all.
As the Coastal Mountains approach, the Rocky Mountaineer climbs into the canyon, winding along river canyons surrounded by the peaks of the Coast and Cascade mountains. Beneath you snakes the Fraser River, cutting a rugged path through jagged mountains and creating what is one of the most spectacular river canyon landscapes in the world. At Hell’s Gate the canyon narrows and we get a glimpse of century-old fish ladders inbedded in canyon walls, built a century ago to support the largest population of Sockeye salmon in the world.
Wildlife here includes black bear, deer, Big Horn Sheep and the elusive cougar. Towards the end of the day, the land opens up into lush vegetable and dairy farms of the Fraser Valley
Your rail journey ends upon arrival in Vancouver and you will be transferred to your hotel for the night.
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
Day 3. Smithers, BC
After spending the night in Vancouver we transfer you from your hotel to Vancouver International Airport’s south terminal for your scheduled two hour flight to Smithers. You’ll be met by your driver/guide at Smithers Airport and escorted to a local hotel.
Rolling hills and farmland, rivers, creeks, lakes, mountain ranges, green forests, and wildlife such as bears and moose enclose the town. Smithers' backdrop is snow-peaked Hudson Bay Mountain, which towers above at 1,650m/5,413ft. Downtown consists of just a few blocks of Austrian and Swiss accented building. Each block contains many interesting shops and at least one coffeehouse inhabited by friendly locals with many languages and dialects.
Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: Local Downtown Inn
Day 4. Stewart, B.C. / Hyder AK
We depart Smithers early in the morning, keeping our eyes peeled for wildlife that often frequents the sides of the roads at this time of day. Soon we come to the confluence of the Kispiox and Skeena River where the First Nations’ Village of Kispiox is located. This village, home of the Gitskan People, has some of the oldest totem poles in the world.
After a tour of this village we continue to the historical village of Hazelton, once an important commercial terminal for Sternwheelers plying the waters of the Skeena. Now a sleepy, quaint town with restored historic buildings, Hazelton is a fun stop to either take lunch or to stretch our legs. Next, it’s on to the ancient village of K’san, located at the confluence of the Bulkley and Skeena River, and home to the Gitanmaax People, who have inhabited this area for thousands of years. Here, on the banks of the Skeena River, a replica of the once ancient village has been recreated with seven big houses, poles, smoke houses and caches.
Turning off the Yellowhead Highway we start the Cassiar Highway heading North to Alaska! This largely single lane road eventually crosses the Yukon border to connect with the Alaska Highway. We head 150 kilometres north on this road, following the Nass River before turning west toward Stewart BC and Hyder,
This single lane road to Stewart cuts through the steep slopes of the Coastal Range and winds its way past spectacular mountains, hanging glaciers and lush coastal forests. We stop at Bear Pass to view the icy blue Bear Glacier. Heading closer to Stewart we encounter rich green vegetation and sparkling waterfalls that line the mountainsides, giving this area an almost tropical feel. The landscape starts to open up as we reach the seaside town of Stewart.
Located at the head of the Portland Canal on the AK-BC border, Stewart has a population of 700. Major attractions here are the Bear Glacier, Salmon Glacier and the Fish Creek Bear viewing area. One way or the other, if you haven’t seen a bear by now, your odds just dramatically increased!
After we check into our historic inn, we’ll take a walking tour of the once thriving mining town. From Stewart we cross the border around the corner and step back into the wild west settlement of Hyder Alaska, known as the friendliest ghost town in Alaska.
In the evening we can enjoy a little refreshment from one of several small bars. A key attraction for some is the local 150 proof 'Everclear' which, if consumed in one shot, enables one to claim they have been “Hyderized”.
Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: Local Inn
Day 5. Stewart, B.C. / Hyder AK
Our day begins with a drive out to the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site in the Salmon River Valley. Here we have a unique opportunity to view and photograph grizzly and black bears. From early July to mid-September, grizzly and black bears are generally easily observed as they fish and frolic for spawning chum and pink salmon in the clear, shallow waters of Fish Creek and Marx Creek. The spawning salmon also provide food for gulls and bald eagles.
Other wildlife frequently seen include nesting Canada Geese, harlequin ducks, common mergansers, mink, beaver, bald eagles, and a wide variety of songbirds.
After our visit to Fish Creek, we drive along the Salmon River Valley and follow the mountain road as it climbs into the Coastal Mountain Range, winding its way through some of the most spectacular scenery in the world. We follow the Salmon River to its birthplace - the Salmon Glacier. 4,300 ft. up in the alpine located back in beautiful British Columbia. This backroad goes by several old gold mines including the famous Premier Gold Mine - now called Westmin Gold - which has been in operation off and on since the 1920s.
The road cuts into the side of the mountain and offers commanding views of the Salmon Glacier, the fifth largest glacier in the world. We’ll make our way to the Granduc Mine alongside the Brenedon Glacier and Summit Lake. As evening falls, we stop at Fish Creek for a second look.
Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: Local Inn
Day 6. Terrace, B.C.
On the way to Terrace, we turn south and retrace our steps back along the scenic Cassiar Highway. Enroute we visit the First Nation’s Village of Kitwanga and Gitanyow. These villages have been inhabited for thousands of years and have been the subject of a number of Emily Carr’s and Roy Henry Vickers famous paintings. At these places your driver/guide will relate the history about local First Nations and describe the meaning of a number of these totems.
During the drive to we keep our eyes out for wildlife, as bears, moose and wolves often frequent this area. Terrace’s population of 12,000 people is out numbered in the summer months by up to 5 million spawning salmon returning to the Skeena River each year. Not far from Terrace we take a short trip across a river to a remote village inhabited by a few hardy individuals.
Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: Local Inn
Day 7. Prince Rupert, B.C.
Continuing on the Yellowhead Highway, we follow the mighty Skeena River as it winds its way from the town of Terrace to Prince Rupert. The Skeena is North America’s largest un-dammed river. Boasting a length of 610 kilometres, it is also the second longest river in British Columbia.
As we approach the coast we divert to a secondary road to visit the North Pacific Cannery Village, a National Historic Site. This coastal area has been home to a number of fish canneries for over 100 years. The North Pacific Cannery Village Museum seeks to preserve this aspect of the area’s history through its restoration of a cannery built in 1899. We step back in time as we explore a village resting on stilts and joined by boardwalks. As we’ll see during a guided tour, a number of machines have been restored to full operation. Other museum displays include life in the canneries and historical methods of fishing and processing.
Ten minutes from Prince Rupert lies the trailhead to the Butze Rapids Trail, a popular local hike. Here the group has the option to hike part or all of this five kilometre chip and boardwalk trail that meanders through old growth forest, and across bogs, wetlands and swamps carpeted with moss and stunted pines. Along the way, interpretative signs and maps provide insight into flora and fauna and local wildlife. About two kilometres down the trail is a viewing platform that overlooks a set of reversing rapids.
After the hike, we continue on to Prince Rupert, “The City of Rainbows” (pop. 15,000), and check into our ocean view hotel.
Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: Downtown Hotel with Ocean View
Day 8. Prince Rupert, B.C.
Today is a free day to relax or journey into the wilderness to see wildlife. Your driver/guide will be pleased to assist you to make arrangements for the following excursions
1. Float plane and zodiac tour to the Khutzeymateen. $477.00 pp (3 hours)
This excursion departs Prince Rupert by floatplane for a scenic ride to bear country. The 30 minute flight spirits you into deep wilderness: over rugged mountains, remote valleys, cirque lakes in high alpine meadows and steeped walled fjords. Stepping off the plane you’ll then board a covered boat for a two hour exploration into the wilderness setting of the protected waters of the Khutzyemateen Inlet. This excursion books out early and should be booked far in advance, preferably at the same time as making this tour booking.
2. Grizzly Bear Tours – $225 pp (6 hours)
Travel by large covered and heated catamaran boat 2-3 hours north of Prince Rupert. On board your tour guide and naturalist will provide a narration of the areas’ geography, history and culture. Once at the Khutzeymateen Grizzly Bear Sanctuary we spend 2-3 hours touring the area looking for bears. A delicious deli lunch is included on this tour. Enroute to or from the Khutzeymateen we stop for other wildlife including Gray and orca whales.
3. Marine and Whale watching tours $150.00 (4 hours)
Humpback, Gray, orca and Minke Whales are seen at various times from the Spring to the Fall along the coast of British Columbia. On this tour passengers travel by boat past the islands and islets that surround Prince Rupert. Colonies of sea lions, otters, bald eagles, seals and porpoises as well as large bird colonies are often seen year round on each tour.
4.Fishing. Salmon and halibut fishing charter rates begin at $100 per hour and include all gear. The skipper will arrange for your catch to be smoked and shipped to your home. Most charter boats accommodate up to four people.
Time permitting we’ll take a driving tour of Prince Rupert’s ‘Old Town’, including the historic totem poles of the Haida and Tsimshian. Your driver/guide will also point out several seafood restaurants near the harbour. To accommodate those who have elected to take the float plan tour into the Khutzeymateen Grizzly Bear Sanctuary, our first stop will be Prince Rupert’s float plane base.
Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: Downtown Hotel with Ocean View
Day 9. Port McNeill, B.C.
This morning we embark on our 15 hour voyage down the Inside Passage. Everyone needs to be packed and down by the tour bus by 5:00 am. We arrive at the BC Ferry terminal at 5:40 am where we undergo a security check before boarding. As the ship departs the harbour at 7:30 am we’re already on our way upstairs to our reserved seats in the dining room, craving our favourite hot beverage. A sumptuous breakfast buffet awaits with several varieties of eggs, meats, seafood, cheeses, breads, pastries and juice. We take time to linger over breakfast while watching the gently rolling wilderness wake up to the day.
Built in Germany in 2009, the Northern Expedition harnesses 9000 horsepower for an average cruising speed of 18 knots. This 150 meter ship offers 55 staterooms and accommodates 638 passengers and crew and 130 vehicles. Spacious passenger areas such as the Canoe Cafe, Vista Restaurant and the Raven and Aurora Lounges complement what is a unique sailing experience. This is not a jammed cruise ship where one competes for space and amenities!
About 1500 kilometres in length, the Inside Passage starts in Puget Sound in Washington State and extends north along the British Columbia coastline to the Alaska Panhandle. The first 500 kilometres of the Inside Passage are sheltered by Vancouver Island. Ours is the middle portion and is the most rugged and isolated section of the Inside Passage. We pass through a pristine marine wilderness where the hand of man appears sporadically. In this land no roads connect the settlements we see.
Along the way, the captain and crew provide narrative accounts of local sights, including wildlife sightings which are common on this route. Gray and humpback whales, orcas, porpoises, dolphins seals, and black bears and many species of birds call this land home.
A few hours after leaving Prince Rupert we enter Grenville Chanel, the most spectacular channel in the Inside Passage. Mountains ranging from 1500 to 3500 feet surround us as we enter this 70 kilometre long channel, the narrowest portion of which is a mere 1400 feet wide. Next is Butedale, founded as a cannery and abandoned in the 1950’s. After that we encounter abandoned Swanson Bay, established in 1909 as one of the first sulphate pulp mills on the coast.
The next point of interest is Princess Royal Island, the favourite haunt of the elusive Kermode, or Spirit Bear. Its white colour is the result of a single recessive gene carried by both parents. Wildlife biologists believe the high concentration of Spirit bears on Princess Royal Island is because they are geographically isolated from other black bear populations. Many of the Kitasoo/Xaixais people believe the Spirit bears hold super-natural powers. Hence, the name Spirit bear - one that suits its mythical-like presence. Next is the Khutzeymateen Grizzly Bear Sanctuary, and we bring out our binoculars again, hoping to see a grizzly or two lingering around the river estuaries.
At mid point in our journey we sail close to the manned Boat Bluff Light Station. Built in 1897, Boat Bluff marks the northbound entrance to the narrow Sarah Passage and its light can be seen for 20 miles. Here, the coastline is so rugged that any boat would be hard-pressed to find a welcoming landing site.
One of the next sights is the abandoned cannery village of Namu, meaning place of high winds, or whirlwinds. Dating from when the cannery was first established in 1893, Namu is the oldest settlement on BC’s west coast. Excavations have unearthed artifacts dating back 10,000 years. Our first glimpse of real civilization is Bella Bella. With a population of 1,400, this is the largest settlement on the central coast and is home to the Heiltsuk First Nations.
Shortly before arriving in Port Hardy, on the north tip of Vancouver Island, we round Cape Caution to the Central Coast Archipelago and cross the open ocean to Prince Rupert. After disembarking in Port Hardy, we make the short drive to Port McNeill where we check into our locally owned hotel.
Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: Local Inn
Day 10. Campbell River, BC
Shortly after leaving Port McNeill we take a secondary road to Telegraph Cove. Passing by a log sorting plant we will hopefully see one of the last log trains in operation today. We arrive at Telegraph Cove (pop. 20) by mid- afternoon. One of the last boardwalk communities of Vancouver Island, Telegraph Cove was once the northern terminus of a telegraph line that began in Campbell River and stretched from tree to tree along Vancouver Island's east coast. .
Interpretative information signs along the boardwalk tell the story of this quaint and historical cove. At the end of the boardwalk is one of Canada’s most renowned whale watching companies – Stubb’s Whale Watching, as well as the Whale Interpretive Centre and Bones Project.
On this morning, group members have several options:
Whale watching: From Telegraph Cove, passengers can embark on a large, covered boat for a 3 1/2 hour whale watching trip in search of orcas and other whales with Stubbs Island Whale Watching ($94).
Tour to Alert Bay: Located on Cormorant Island, this village of 1100 people has a vibrant First Nations culture. This 6 hour tour includes a return voyage on a coastal ferry, a tour of the Cormorant Island and its totems, entrance to the U’Mista Cultural Centre and lunch. We’ll also have time to peruse local shops that sell original First Nations art ($104).
Port McNeill: Those opting out of both tours can enjoy some free time on their own in the town of Port McNeil.
In the afternoon, we will leave for Campbell River. For the next two hours we are on a winding wilderness highway, passing by only two villages. Here the highway narrows to mainly single lane as we enter the Nimpkish Valley, home to roosevelt elk, whitetail deer and black bear. Lakes, mountains and forests dominate the landscape. Before we arrive in Campbell River, we stop at a First Nations site that features totems. Here your guide will speak in more detail about the history of BC First Nations and demonstrate totem interpretation.
Campbell River (pop. 30,000), is known as the ‘Salmon Capital of the World’. Our hotel is centrally located and enables easy access to downtown shops, the marina and ocean walkways. Looking east, one can see BC’s Coastal Mountains towering over the ocean.
Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: Downtown Hotel
Day 11. Victoria, BC
Upon leaving Campbell River, we turn off onto the old Island Highway to wind our way along the shoreline and past coastal villages until we enter the Cowichan Valley.
It would be a cardinal sin to pass through the Cowichan Valley, known as the ‘Warmland”, without taking stock of at least one local winery. The Cowichan's long growing season and mild ocean-influenced winters have enabled it to be a prominent agricultural area on Vancouver Island. As we’ll see (and taste!) during our visit to an award winning winery, wine grapes are the latest crop. Lunch is at a seaside village in a local diner acclaimed for having the best fish and chips outside the UK.
Later, we pull off at the Koksilah River for a short walk to view one of the largest wood trestle bridges in existence. As we venture out on this 44 meter high bridge, now part of the trans-Canada trail, your guide will discuss the history of the forest industry on Vancouver Island.
After rejoining the highway, we begin our winding journey down the east coast of Vancouver Island. As we head towards Goldstream Provincial Park, we are offered commanding views of the Saanich Peninsula, Salt Spring Island and, on a clear day, the Cascade Mountains in Washington State.
We arrive in Victoria (pop. 78 000), the capital of British Columbia in the early evening, and have time to enjoy the city, nicknamed “The City of Gardens”. Your tour is now complete, and the guide will drop you at any of the downtown Victoria Hotels. Please feel free to ask Midnight Sun Travel for a hotel recommendation and to make your reservation.
Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: Not provided
